Reading Time: 3 min
Think sushi became uncool? Think again, as brilliant corners adds a mysterious edge to the overdone gimmick.
470 Kingsland Road
Another week, another effortlessly chic addition to the Dalston menu. We all have that friend who hates sushi: whose eyes roll into the back of their head at the mention of raw fish, who groans uncontrollably at the slightest suggestion of grabbing a quick itsu for lunch and who would rather be dragged across hot coals than dragged to SUSHISAMBA, touting anything related to sushi as expensive and pretentious.
To this I say: take them to brilliant corners.
There’s not much not to love about this jewel of an immersive restaurant created by brothers Amit and Aneesh Patel. Hidden amongst the off-licenses and nail salons of Kingsland Road, the floor-to-ceiling glass of its front window reveals a bustling bar at a certain time of night, but betrays the real treasure of its restauran, hidden at its rear.
And what a magical treat it was, visiting with three friends (including the aforementioned sushi-skeptic) on a Wednesday evening; but with the amount of footfall, you would have thought it was an excited Friday night (talk about mid-week escapism). It’s a restaurant with quality over quantity at is heart, or, as succinctly put by its founder: “I want it to be more like a family party where you’ll meet all sorts and hear all sorts: not a club where you have to be part of a scene.”
“Pared-back interiors make conversation - and, of course, the food - front and centre.”
It’s definitely more of a family affair that your average dining experience; the brothers’ love of music is paramount to the experience at brilliant corners, with the towering Klipschorn speakers pumping out sublime experimental jazz and minimalist beats all night, providing a perfect backdrop for a minimal evening. It’s an evening illuminated by the clusters of moon-like lamps overhead, where pared-back interiors make conversation - and, of course, the food - front and centre.
You’re recommended to purchase three plates per head and to share like crazy. Trust me: you’ll want to. brilliant corners takes food envy to the next level, even if you think you’ve gotten a broad range of the menu surrounding you and your friends, chances are you’ll see something the next table over that fills you with FOMO.
The food itself is perfectly presented and almost ornament-like in appearance: the candy pink colours make the tuna and salmon seem like delicate desserts, the medallions of the mushrooms are golden and the gorgeous caramelisation of the blackened cod could almost be candied. Plus, it doesn’t hurt when your waiter can create unique cocktails, just for your table.
In short, the food is completely demanding of your attention, whether it’s because its literally served to you every 20 minutes (the plates are served gradually, as and when they’re ready) or because of the divine taste journey you embark on. But free of gimmick, superfluity and pretentiousness, brilliant corners provides the perfect place to give its food the attention it deserves.
Words + Images : Hannah Crosbie